- Pattern piece
- The flat shape of a garment part that is cut out of fabric. One garment's pattern is usually a dozen or so pieces: front, back, sleeve, hood, ribbing.
- Parametric block
- A pattern stored as formulas rather than a drawing. Change the chest girth or the ease and every point and curve is recalculated at once, in every size.
- Drafting formula
- An entry such as “back width = (chest + ease) ÷ 4”. The program computes the points in order of dependency, so one change runs through the whole pattern.
- Ease
- The amount added over the body measurement that decides the fit. The same pattern with 6 cm of ease is fitted; with 20 cm it is oversized.
- Basting
- A temporary, loose stitch holding the pieces together before a fitting. The English word baste is where the name Basteo comes from.
- Toile
- A garment sewn from cheap fabric to check the fit before the real material is cut.
- Fitting
- Measuring the toile on a person and recording the deviations in centimetres for each zone: chest, hips, waist, length, shoulders, armhole, sleeve, neck.
- Pattern version
- The next state of a pattern after the corrections from a fitting: v1, v2, v3. Basteo lays the versions over each other so you can see what moved.
- Grading
- Recalculating a pattern from one size into all the others according to rules. From Gemini CAD it arrives as a .rul file together with the DXF.
- Size chart
- A set of measurements assigned to size labels. In Basteo: women and men XS–7XL, children by height 50–164 cm.
- Marker
- The layout of all the pieces of an order across the fabric width, arranged so that as little fabric as possible is used. The result is the marker length and the utilisation percentage.
- Fabric utilisation
- How much of the marker area is pieces and how much is waste. The higher the percentage, the cheaper the garment.
- Grain line
- The axis of the fabric a piece has to lie along — otherwise the finished garment twists in the wash. It is marked on the pattern with an arrow.
- Nap
- Fabrics such as velour or corduroy look different from above and from below, so every piece has to lie the same way up.
- Fold
- An edge placed on the fold of the fabric — the piece is then cut double and with no seam down the middle.
- Seam allowance
- The strip of fabric outside the stitching line, needed to join the pieces. In Basteo it is set separately for each edge.
- Notch
- A mark on the edge of a piece, used to match two parts to each other while sewing.
- Sleeve ease
- The surplus length of the sleeve head over the armhole girth, worked in while the sleeve is set. Too much gathers, too little pulls.
- DXF-AAMA
- The format for exchanging patterns between CAD programs, with layers for the outline, the stitching line, the grain, the notches and the lettering.
- .rul
- The file of grading rules from Gemini CAD. Together with the DXF it gives every size at once.
- PLT / HPGL
- The file format for the plotter and the cutter — a sequence of “go here, pen down” commands.
- Cutting ticket
- The document for the cutting room: which pieces, in which sizes and quantities, how many plies, from which roll and how long the marker is.
- Bundle
- A set of cut pieces for anything from a few to a dozen or so garments, with a label and a barcode, travelling through the shop floor together.
- Time standard
- How many minutes one operation on one garment should take, for example setting a sleeve 4.5 min. The basis for planning and for piece-rate pay.
- Piece rate
- Pay calculated from the work done rather than from the hours: standard hours × rate.
- Efficiency
- Standard hours against the hours actually worked, in per cent. 100 % means “exactly to the standard”.
- Fabric weight
- The weight of a square metre of fabric in grams (GSM). Needed to convert running metres into kilograms — knits are bought by weight.
- Shrinkage
- How much the fabric shrinks after the first wash, separately along the weft and the warp. Ignored, it turns an L into an M.
- Customer's own material
- Fabric supplied by the client. The workshop then invoices the labour only, not the material.
- Tech pack
- The full documentation of a product: the technical drawing, the control measurements per size, the bill of materials and the list of operations.
- BOM
- The list of materials for one garment: fabric, ribbing, zip, thread, labels, packaging — with quantities and prices.
